Benefits Of Engineered Hardwood Flooring
Engineered wood flooring is normally consisting of a core of hardwood, plywood or HDF as well as a top layer of hardwood veneer that is glued on the top of the core. Engineered flooring comes in many hardwood species the same as solid hardwood floors. The product therefore contains the natural characteristics of the selected wood species rather than photographic top layer for example that utilized to manufacture laminate floors. The engineered hardwood has become meant to provide greater stability, particularly where moisture or heat pose problems for solid hardwood floors.
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Engineered hardwood is a bit more resistance against moisture and humidity than solid hardwood. Therefore, it's better for below-grade installations such as basements, where dampness is common. Moreover, it can be installed over radiant heating systems, which have a tendency to dry solid hardwood creating the boards to shrink, cup and buckle. It's also ideal more than a concrete subfloor, either like a direct glue-down or perhaps a floating floor. The instability of solid hardwood is generally moisture or heat related. Under adverse conditions, solid hardwood flooring can warp, cup, swell or split apart. Engineered hard wood floors overcomes these issues by making a multiple-ply plank which counteracts twisting and remains flat and intact. That is why engineered wood flooring is the perfect selection for installation over radiant heat sources or above concrete whether below grade or over.
How Engineered Hardwood Is done
Beyond the top layer hardwood veneer, engineered timber flooring typically has 3 or more layers. Most of the time, the more layers the greater the stability. The main layers comprise of plywood, high density fiberboard, or hardwood. As an example, the best engineered flooring has 5 up to 7 hardwood core layers. The most notable layer veneer is the identical genuine hardwood you've got in solid hard wood floors.
Thickness & Quality
The hardwood veneer, top layer hardwood, is normally between 0.5mm and 4.5mm or maybe more in depth. A good hardwood veneer will provide a lot of wear. For example, higher quality engineered hardwood typically features a 2mm hardwood veneer and has a 25-year finish warranty. All engineered hardwood floors at X-Pression Hardwood Floors includes a at least 2mm hardwood veneer.
Refinishing Engineered Hardwood
To be able to refinish an engineered hardwood floor depends on the thickness of the top hardwood veneer layer, but actually 95% of hardwood surfaces will never be refinished. With today's top quality finishes the need for sanding and refinishing continues to be reduced. If sanding is desired, typically, an experienced sanding procedure removes about 1/32 inch. In case your floor includes a 2mm layer it is possible to sand it 1-2 times.
Hardness Testing
Like a consumer of quality hardwood flooring, you naturally want to know what sort of product you are looking at purchasing will withstand wearing and dents. The Janka hardness rating is the standard measurement for this reason. The Janka test is completed by measuring the force required to lodge a .444-inch steel ball within the wood species to a depth of half the ball’s diameter. The better the rating, the harder is the types of wood. Naturally, the Janka hardness rating is additionally useful when assessing how easy or difficult it is to hammer a nail in the hardwood or cut it with a saw.
Installing Engineered Hardwood
Most of the time, engineered flooring may be installed in three different ways. One, it could be nailed over a plywood subfloor. Two, it may be glued over a plywood or concrete subfloor. Three, it can float more than a plywood or concrete subfloor. For nail down installation, ideal plywood subfloor ought to be ¾” thick, and a latex or wax underlay paper needs to be placed underneath. If gluing the bottom entirely on the subfloor, use 100% urethane based adhesive by having an integrated vapor barrier. For floating installation, make use of an foam underlayment with a vapor barrier.
Please be aware that the info above is really a general guide. Always stick to the guidelines put down through the National Wood Flooring Association.